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<\/a><\/p>\nOur lodge, Rodon Ridge<\/a>, would be the most modern and well-appointed of the tour\u2019s wilderness accommodations, thanks to its proximity to Mount Hagen, the interior highlands\u2019 commercial heart. A Princess Stephanie’s astrapia<\/a>, famed for its iridescent greenish-blue feathers that shade to indigo in the back, was carved onto each of the lodge\u2019s double doors \u2013 a reminder that we’re in a birder\u2019s paradise!<\/p>\n One of the region\u2019s birdwatching hotspots is Kumul Lodge. The guesthouse puts fruit out on the grounds to provide for close-range viewing as the birds help themselves to the hospitality. Our group opted for the outing as birds-of-paradise, being heavily hunted, are understandably skittish and usually found high up in the canopy.<\/p>\n Departing at the ungodly hour of 5:50 am, it took over 1.5 hrs over bumpy roads to reach our destination, but the sight of the electric blue male Ribbon-Tailed Astrapia<\/a> made it all worthwhile. Sadly, its hallmark tail feathers were MIA, likely from its annual molt, but it was a real treat to see it up close and personal nonetheless.<\/p>\n Watching the female Brown Sicklebill<\/a> play with her food was supremely entertaining \u2014 she\u2019d pluck a piece of papaya with her curved beak, pitch it skyward, then catch and swallow it midair.<\/p>\n Like most of its species, the West Papuan Lorikeet<\/a> was a riot of color, and a joy to find.<\/p>\n One of events on the itinerary was a Pre-Sing Sing show. It didn\u2019t mean much when I booked the tour, but it turned out to be the highlight of my trip!<\/p>\n Apparently Rodon Ridge invites a curated list of cultural groups to camp on its grounds every year, providing them with accommodations in exchange for a private performance the day before the official Sing Sing. The show is held on its expansive helipad, a large tree-encircled clearing near the lodge.<\/p>\n I was excited to learn that guests get primo access \u2013 akin to having a backstage pass \u2013 to watch the groups gear up. Hearing that we could start right after breakfast, I scarfed down my food and dashed out. It was already abuzz with activity when I got there around 8:40.<\/p>\n Here are some images showing various stages of preparation throughout the morning. A silver lining to the post-COVID dip in tourism was that we could all find our own slice of photographic heaven: no jostling, no crowds. I was left to putter around, checking out the scene and snapping pix of whatever caught my eye. It was magical…<\/p>\n I caught two Huli Wigmen<\/a> at the initial stage of donning their headdresses and came to realize it\u2019s a multi-layered process.<\/p>\n Later in the morning, I spotted this young Huli in his ceremonial wig. Going to town with the fancy face paint, it took over an hour to complete before he was finally ready to get started on the rest of his body.<\/p>\n This young woman\u2019s group sported arguably the most extravagantly large and beautiful headdresses. But at the opposite end of the face paint spectrum, the finishing touches for her face would just be some daubs of color on the cheeks and tip of her nose.<\/p>\n It was fascinating to watch the Melpa<\/a> men grooming and painting their faces in bright red and yellow, outlined in a combination of white, black, or blue. Store bought colorants are increasingly supplanting traditional body paints from clays, muds and local dyes mixed with pig fat. This man was absolutely focused on the task at hand. Liquid Paper, valued for its brilliant intensity, is supposedly now the white paint of choice!<\/p>\n Others help with body decoration, while the rest are charged with assembling the elaborate headdresses or assisting performers with their costumes.<\/p>\n Unfortunately for the King of Saxony<\/a>, this Bird of Paradise is obviously very popular among the locals: its scalloped brow plumes are on every one of these headdresses!<\/p>\n To safeguard these natural resources which are crucial to the country\u2019s traditions, the Wildlife Conservation Society in PNG provides \u2018Bilas Protection Kits\u2019 to help tribes extend the lifespan of ceremonial feathers. Each kit consists of a heavy-duty airtight plastic bag, mothballs, acid-free paper for wrapping, and instructions. If the feathers are wrapped individually, and carefully assembled when needed, headdresses can last as long as 15-20 years!<\/p>\n<\/a>The lodge also has an abundance of blooming plants on its grounds, including many species of orchids.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a> The dancers come with an entourage of support. Some serve as face paint artists.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n