{"id":11168,"date":"2025-11-06T16:14:22","date_gmt":"2025-11-07T00:14:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/interspace-design.com\/blog\/?p=11168"},"modified":"2026-01-21T00:19:35","modified_gmt":"2026-01-21T08:19:35","slug":"of-cannibals-and-birds-part-iv","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/interspace-design.com\/blog\/of-cannibals-and-birds-part-iv","title":{"rendered":"Of Cannibals and Birds | Part IV"},"content":{"rendered":"

Up next: a sensory explosion of dance, tribal culture, and clashing worlds amidst tourist pandemonium at the Mount Hagen Sing Sing<\/a>!<\/p>\n

The BIG DAY finally arrived. Since we were scheduled to fly late afternoon back to Port Moresby<\/a>, we checked out with our luggage after breakfast. Jorge, our tour leader, went ahead to troubleshoot the event setup and found, in typical Papua New Guinea fashion, that the original location had just been changed that morning<\/em>, so the much-touted \u2018upgraded bathrooms\u2019 were no more… Arriving early at the new venue, we got our VIP badges and front row seats by the stands, only to be told \u2013 surprise! \u2013 that the show had been moved to an adjacent cordoned-off field.<\/p>\n

Eventually, the different cultural groups filed in to get ready for their performances. The area was reserved for dancers, but there was practically no enforcement. As most of the attendees ended up migrating over there, our group threw in the towel and joined the fray. At its peak, the packed showground was a sea of greenery, feathers, and bodies in motion amidst a babel of chants. The kaleidoscope of sights and sounds was sheer sensory overload…<\/p>\n

What was most noticeable was that during our visit, the show was attended exclusively by foreign tourists with VIP passes and their guides. General admission was scheduled to start later in the afternoon \u2013 the locals were already massing outside the gates as we left around 3 pm.<\/p>\n

The festival had the potential to be an extraordinary photographic experience, but ironically, it left me feeling overwhelmed and frustrated. Overwhelmed because it was challenging to lock onto a subject amidst all the visual cacophony, and frustrated as a result of the appalling behavior of event attendees. Some would randomly barge unceremoniously into performing groups for photo or video ops, while others shoved money into dancers\u2019 hands for poses \u2013 a practice Jorge had advised against to prevent the commercialization of tribal traditions.<\/p>\n

This pervasive self-absorption \u2013 with festivalgoers consumed by their quest for the perfect selfie \u2013 left no space for anyone else. As a result, it was almost impossible to take a decent pic or video without getting photobombed or jostled. This frenetic chaos was a far cry from our relaxed and intimate Pre-Sing Sing show<\/a> at Rodon Ridge yesterday.<\/p>\n

All dance troupes carried signs showing their assigned group number and district, village, or cultural group name, but it\u2019s incredibly challenging to find additional info given so little is known about PNG\u2019s numerous ethnic tribes, most of whom live in remote locales. But here\u2019s my collection of pix and videos from the Sing Sing, together with what info I can gather from my research using Gemini<\/a>, ChatGPT<\/a>, Perplexity<\/a> and Copilot<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"Group<\/a><\/p>\n

As seen here, the field was filling up with show participants and their support teams. These women hail from the Pangia district in the Southern Highlands Province of PNG.<\/p>\n

\"POI<\/a><\/p>\n

The POI Black Mama cultural group is from the Mul-Baiyer District in the Western Highlands Province where the population is primarily Melpa<\/a>. Having seen the Amazonian physique of the Melpa ladies, this definitely rings true!<\/p>\n

\"Asaro<\/a><\/p>\n

The Asaro Mudmen<\/a> are famous for their powerful performance<\/a> wearing grotesque clay masks, which could weigh up to 25 pounds. As legend has it, after being defeated in battle, the Mudmen covered themselves in white river mud and donned fearsome masks to masquerade as spirits of dead warriors seeking revenge. Seeing the \u2018ghosts\u2019, their rivals were overcome by fear and fled without a fight.<\/p>\n

\"Woman<\/a><\/p>\n

White dot on the tip of a nose is traditional body decoration for women in PNG. Such practices have cultural, aesthetic, or symbolic significance, with each tribe expressing its unique styles and meanings passed down through generations. These markings are typically made using white clay (kaolin), lime, or ash for ceremonial events or Sing Sings.<\/p>\n

\"Enga<\/a><\/p>\n

The Silimuli \u2013 also known as Sulimuli or Sunimuli \u2013 from the remote, mountainous Enga Province<\/a>, are highly identifiable at Sings Sings and cultural shows. Sometimes referred to as the Black-Faced Tribe, men as well as women wear face paint of charcoal or ash and oil, as black for them is a symbol of strength and cultural identity. Similar to the Huli Wigmen<\/a>, Silimuli headdresses can be made of human hair, but include moss, plant fibers, and leaves for structure and embellishment. However unlike the Hulis, their wigs are large and round, almost disk-like, with much less flamboyant feather decorations.<\/p>\n