{"id":3567,"date":"2013-09-30T19:39:26","date_gmt":"2013-10-01T02:39:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/interspace-design.com\/blog\/?p=3567"},"modified":"2020-07-17T11:01:02","modified_gmt":"2020-07-17T18:01:02","slug":"pursuit-lemurs-wildebeest","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/interspace-design.com\/blog\/pursuit-lemurs-wildebeest","title":{"rendered":"Last Tango with the Lemurs?!"},"content":{"rendered":"

Blame it on National Geographic<\/a> and PBS’s Nature<\/a> program but I’ve always fantasized Africa as an ultimate destination in my bucket list. Some of our most fascinating exchanges were with Brits in the steamy jungles of Costa Rica who, in the 90\u2019s, regaled us with tales of their African safaris.<\/p>\n

Finally in commemoration our 30th wedding anniversary, my husband and I decided to make the long trek to Africa. We wanted to see the fabled lemurs<\/a>\u00a0of Madagascar<\/a> before their habitat is turned into firewood.We also hoped to catch the Great Wildebeest Migration<\/a> of the Serengeti<\/a>. I was glad to say that we saw all that and much more\u2026<\/p>\n

Obviously travel in Africa can be challenging, but the Dark Continent is a vast land and there are tour operators who cater to every whim\u00a0for a variety of African nations (aside from conjuring up AC rooms in the middle of a desert!). After much research, we settled on Madagascar and Tanzania for our safari. We were able to find comfortable lodgings in both countries, though Tanzania has a much better developed tourism industry with plenty of luxury camp options.<\/p>\n

Madagascar is an island off the SE coast of Africa. Most of the flora and fauna of this former French colony – most famously its lemurs – have evolved independently in isolation and are found nowhere else on earth.<\/p>\n

Because of the country’s large size, poor infrastructure, limited and highly unreliable air service, we decided to forego jaunts to the idyllic Ile Sainte Marie and focus on the parks and reserves to the east and south. After overnighting at the capital city of Tana (short for Antananarivo), we flew south to Fort Dauphin, gateway to the Berenty Private Reserve<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"Man<\/a>
Malagasy man driving his zebu ox cart in the middle of Tana’s automobile traffic.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Zebu is a breed of humped cattle originating from SE Asia and is raised for meat, milk and work. It’s an integral part of the tribal culture in Madagascar where wealth is measured by the size of one’s zebu herd.<\/p>\n

\"Barge<\/a>
Barge carrying people, cars, goods and livestock across the river.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Getting to Berenty Reserve is an adventure unto itself. A bridge was washed out, so we had to queue up for the barge to cross the Mandrake River. Since trucks have priority, we didn’t get on the first time. Our guide took the opportunity to buy some litchis from the fruit vendors.<\/p>\n

\"River<\/a>
Scenic view from the barge.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Despite being in a semi-arid region, the banks along the Mandrake River are lush with vegetation.<\/p>\n

\"Berenty<\/a>
Berenty is partly a research station and its offerings remain fairly basic.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Berenty Lodge hosts both tourists and scientists from around the world. Like the Galapagos\u00a0<\/a>guides, Berenty’s naturalist guides help in the some of the scientific studies.<\/p>\n

\"Brown<\/a>
One of the brown lemurs hanging out in a tree.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Love the inquisitive look of this brown lemur<\/a>. Its apparent that lemurs in the Reserve aren’t wary of people!<\/p>\n

\"Ring-tailed<\/a>
A ring-tailed lemur and her baby perched on an aloalo totem.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Wooden funerary totems called aloalo<\/a> are part of the tribal culture in the south. These carvings sport elaborate geometric designs topped with human or animal figures to show something about the life of the deceased. I imagine the aloalo posts on the lodge grounds are reproductions for tourist consumption.<\/p>\n

Ring-tailed lemurs<\/a> spend more time on the ground than any other lemur species, so you often see them scampering around the walk ways.<\/p>\n

\"Cameras<\/a>
An impressive sight \u2013 this photography tour group\u2019s camera gear practically covered the dining table top!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Our average flight delay with Air Madagascar (also nicknamed\u00a0Air Maybe or Air Mad) was 4 hours so we had plenty of quality time with our fellow travelers. We kept running into this Czech photography group at airports and park lodges in Madagascar’s rather predictable tourist circuit.<\/p>\n

\"Local<\/a>
The ubiquitous Three Horses Beer, aka THB.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Madagascar is hot and rainy in November. It’s a good reason to sample a different local beer with every meal!<\/p>\n

\"Romazava,<\/a>
Romazava is a traditional Malagasy stew with zebu. Rice is a staple of the local diet and often served on the side.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We had different versions of romazava<\/a> throughout our stay in Madagascar but the quality of the dish varies daily, even at the same restaurant. Here\u2019s a video<\/a> of a recipe for romazava.<\/p>\n