{"id":4000,"date":"2014-04-14T23:16:06","date_gmt":"2014-04-15T06:16:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/interspace-design.com\/blog\/?p=4000"},"modified":"2020-07-17T00:25:56","modified_gmt":"2020-07-17T07:25:56","slug":"safari","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/interspace-design.com\/blog\/safari","title":{"rendered":"A Drive on the Wild Side – Life & Death on the Serengeti, Part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"

To cap off our amazing Madagascar trip<\/a>, we planned to go on a 10-day safari in Tanzania. Often called ‘the greatest show on earth’, catching the Great Wildebeest Migration<\/a> is certainly a crapshoot. Since we were travelling in the short rainy season, the weather pattern is also rather erratic, but I was determined to try our luck. While most people go to the Serengeti to see The Big Five (elephant, rhino, lion, leopard and buffalo), I was bent on\u00a0finding the graceful but elusive cheetahs.<\/p>\n

We were supposed to\u00a0fly from Antananarivo, aka Tana, the capital of Madagascar, via Nairobi (Kenya) to Kilimanjaro (Tanzania), transfer by car to overnight at Arusha and start our safari the following morning. But this is Africa, where travelling frequently tests one’s fortitude, internal or otherwise.<\/p>\n

Things went awry when Kenya Airways cancelled our flight to Nairobi. We were able to re-route the trip to accommodate the truncated itinerary but\u00a0‘The Pride of Africa’ again threatened to cancel our flight the next day.\u00a0Luckily the\u00a0near-rioting passengers persuaded the airline to\u00a0dredge up a crew to fly us out of Madagascar.<\/p>\n

Our safari finally got underway the next morning. Prosper, our driver\/guide met us early as we had to make up for lost time. As Arusha and civilization fell away, the countryside was dotted with huts from different ethnic groups where the locals still wear their tribes’ distinctive and colorful garbs. I was excited to see the Maasai<\/a> up close and personal. They are one of the dominant tribes in the area and their compounds, called bomas, became a common sight.<\/p>\n

\"Safari<\/a>
Map of our revised trip.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Originally our first stop\u00a0was Tarangire National Park<\/a>,\u00a0famous for its elephant herds. Unfortunately we had to skip that and make a beeline for the Serengeti Serena Lodge so as to arrive Buffalo Luxury Camp on schedule. After a couple nights at Buffalo Camp, we will return to the Serengeti Serena, then\u00a0head for the Ngorongoro Serena Lodge and Kirurumu Tented Lodge before\u00a0ending our trip in Arusha.<\/p>\n

\"Ngorongoro<\/a>
The ultra luxe Ngorongoro Crater Lodge with spectacular views of the Ngorongoro Crater.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Unless in private preserves, tourists are not allowed to get off the safari vehicles except at designated rest stops. Prosper pointed out the luxe Ngorongoro Crater Lodge<\/a> in the distance during our lunch. For purportedly a mere $1500\/pp per night, you get a chandelier-adorned ensuite bathroom (with a deep soaking tub!), opulent velvet bedspread, elegant antiques and of course the obligatory private butler to draw your bath\u2026<\/p>\n

\"Maasai<\/a>
A column of Maasai carrying a load of fire wood.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Traditionally Maasai women carry the water and wood. We drove by the brightly attired group after lunch. Reds, blues, plaids and checks are popular among the Maasai. The Maasai around the Serengeti area wear flowing robes made of several sheets that are wrapped around the body and draped over the shoulders.<\/p>\n

\"Colorful<\/a>
Almost too colorful to be real \u2013 the male Agama lizard.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In our mad dash across the Serengeti to catch up with our itinerary, we made few stops. We saw the Agama lizards<\/a> basking on the rocks when we stopped to pay entrance fees to the Serengeti National Park.<\/p>\n

\"Acacia<\/a>
Iconic image of Africa \u2013 a lone acacia tree in the Serengeti Plain.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Inspired by the opening shot of BBC’s Nature TV series, this picture is my tribute to George Page, the show’s creator, host and long time narrator. My version is a stork laden acacia<\/a> without the Technicolor sunset.<\/p>\n

Shortly before reaching\u00a0the lodge, we\u00a0were surprised to see\u00a0large herds of wildebeest. Plodding single file, the\u00a03 columns of animals streamed up a hillock from different directions to shelter for the night. Their sheer numbers stirred up dust clouds that were visible for miles.<\/p>\n

I had expected the wildebeest to be up by the Kenyan border and was pushing to reach Buffalo Luxury Camp ASAP, but the animals had already splintered into groups and headed south in search of fresh grass. Apparently Serena Lodge was the place to be if we wanted to see wildebeest herds. C’est la vie…<\/p>\n

\"Serengeti<\/a>
We finally arrived at the Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge by dusk. It was a welcoming sight after a long dusty day!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It took almost 9 hours, despite nominal rest stops, to reach the Serena lodge. We weren’t able to spend much time on game drives but still saw gaggles of zebras, Thomsons’ gazelles, Grant’s gazelles, hyenas, giraffes, impalas, elephants and \u2013 at the end of the day \u2013 a lioness with a radio collar lying nonchalantly on the roadside!<\/p>\n

The lodge is an oasis of civilized living in the midst of the Serengeti National Park \u2013 frameless showers, full featured plumbing, comfy beds \u2013 in traditional domed rondavels amidst stands of acacia trees. We were handed welcome drinks and wash cloths at the check in desk. Since wildlife from leopards to dik-diks\u00a0roams around\u00a0the lodge,\u00a0all guests are\u00a0required to call for\u00a0an escort\u00a0when leaving their rooms.<\/p>\n

However while I appreciate the property’s\u00a0amenities, I found the food uninspired. The buffet lines serve up insipid American and Indian dishes (there were lots of Indian tourists) with a meager selection of local fare. Though you can pay for a ‘bush dinner’ \u2013 a private affair with table service, sundowners<\/a>\u00a0 and entrees cooked in the bush kitchen, I doubt the menu is any more authentic than what we got at the restaurant.<\/p>\n

\"Migrating<\/a>
Wildebeest massing in the savannah close to the lodge.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The next day was going to be another long drive, so we started out early. This mixed herd crossed in front of our Land Cruiser and extended as far as the eye can see. Though this isn’t anywhere like being surrounded by a million animals, it’s still impressive. Our guide said a great time to visit is February-March during the calving season when the southern plain is covered with mothers and babies.<\/p>\n

As luck would have it, we spotted a family of 4 cheetahs lazing in the shade. They obligingly posed for some pix before moving on. We took this video as they were strolling around.<\/p>\n